Twice as Nice!

It is the summer time and I wanted a few more light and airy clothes for this summer. My sweet hubby bought me some fabric just because he is so sweet. I wanted to show my appreciation by sewing up all the fabric quickly. Who know he might feel generous again know that his money wasn't stashed away on the fabric shelf. So, I had my on a pair of capris in the Burda Plus Fashion 2010 issue (mod. 429) and a shirt that I previous made from Burda April 2010 (mod. 114), I modified the sleeves by making them shorter. Anyway, I like what I did so much I did each garment twice. I love the results of these patterns. That pants, why was I ever holding back, were so super easy to make. The next time I might complicate them a bit by adding some pockets (again I used the under-stiching on the yolk of the pants). The shirt had button holes. Thank God for the invention of the one-step button hole, it saved a bunch of time and effort to sewing the button whole and machine sew the buttons on the shirts. The shirts took a bit more time, than the pants, but I still completed them both done in a fairly short amount of time. Being able to enjoy the summer with a few new items for an affordable price is great, knowing it will fit well is priceless. This labor of sewing is rewarding a really super money saving in these times where we have to stretch our dollars/euros. Keep sewing folks, it is fun and saves a lot of money.

LBD with Red Hot Center

Well, I finally made the second May issue Burda dress. I have NEVER had a LBD (little black dress), it is still fair to say at my size it really isn't that little. BUT, it is exciting that I finally made some thing along the lines of one. Besides the style of this dress, I really enjoyed the idea of the red hot lining (I chose a soft red cotton fabric that feels so wonderfully soft against my skin and that will let the dress breath). I try to stay away from polyester it often make me feel like I am in a plastic bag.

The fashion fabric is a poplin cotton with some stretch. It is. oh so, comfortable. The dress to me is awesome I love the idea that no one can see that red hot lining. This was made possible by the under stitching. Under-stitching helps a facing or lining to stay to the inside and un-seen. I have done this before but I have not ever executed it as well as I have done in this dress. You cannot see any of the red lining. Under stitching explanation to come later!

La Siciliana Dress

Way back in April. I anticipated the May Burdastyle magazine for the Plusmode dress of the year, for me anyway. I made it several weeks ago. I am calling it the "Mother's Day Dress," because I made it to wear on Mother's Day, in my husband's favorite color purple. What a super delightful dress.

Make a double fold about 1 inch

Choose a blind hem stitch 1

 I used it as a blind stitch 2

Some techniques used are the blind hem and an invisible zipper. There isn't anything I tried to avoid more than hand stitching. The blind hem stitch is generally on every machine unless you have a special sewing for straight stitching or and entry level machine. It is a wonderful stitch if you have it available on your machine, especially if you don't like sewing by hand.

I have used two different stitch settings the benefit of one over the other is they way the fabric can be arranged to be sewn by the machine.
 

fabric mostly to the left

fabric mostly to the right

The fabric either mostly on the left or mostly on the right if you notice on the stitch selection the spike in the stitch is either going to the right or the left. Many times you will need to choose.

wrong side of hem stitch 1

wrong side of hem stitch 2

It is so amazing the result you can get. I did a little demonstration to show what it can look like. I used contrasting thread so you could see what the stitch can do. Seamstresses that are really good, or have great tools, can just barely touch the other the other side of the fabric and you cannot see the thread at all on the front of the garment. I need a ton of practice to be that good. BUT if your thread is a perfect match you cannot see the thread at all, it just blends in. So play with it and practice to get better at this art. Unless you just love the art of hand stitching. I admire people to love the art of hand stitching. I just think it takes too long sometimes.

I think it's more exciting to see people in the clothes they make instead of on the dress form. I will post one soon.

Nothing Like Top Stiching

There's nothing like top stitching to give a sewing project pop. A new week brought new needs for the kiddos. My daughter wanted (really needed) some new pants, and she grew nearly an inch overnight. She is a creature who likes comfort and her comfort zone likes denim. So, I wanted to make her something memorable and awesome. Memorable to me meant something that stood out and fit great. I used a pattern out of Burdastyle (January 2011) and cut off the the pattern at the knees they are shorter pants after all.

But I am going to focus on the top stitching:

Have you ever sewn something that required top stitching that made a statement and found that you just weren't getting the pop you wanted like ready to wear garments. Many times you cannot get that look with regular sewing thread. One way to go is use heavy duty thread, it seems like it is 10 times as thick. This type of thread comes in a variety of colors but not as many as regular weight thread. To get that polished look you heavy duty thread, a larger needle to accommodate the larger thread (a size 14 or size 16), and a steady hand. You can get a variety of looks and the polish you desire that you just cannot get with regular thread. An important note in using this heavy duty thread: you don't use top stitching thread in the bobbin.

Burda shorts - Upsized

Ah back to the Burdastyle patterns........  Well, I had my on some shorts, I noticed that Burdastyle doesn't have many patterns in their plus sizes. I guess, maybe they think, women with big legs don't like shorts? I don't know. BUT I saw a pair of shorts in the March 2011 magazine that I just loved. So, I finally took a leap and made them this week, it was so great, I had enough to make two pair out of the same fabric. Redundant I know but why not, now I have two pairs of shorts instead of one. I had super great results. Like I mentioned before, I am a large lady but I think my legs look okay. Enough on the body size. I have accepted that this is the size God intended me to be.

Well, the wonders of Burdastyle you can resize patterns very easily. I needed a size 48 (US 18) and the largest size was a 44 (US 14) for this shorts patter. Periodically Burdastyle Magazine give instructions on what to do to make a pattern smaller or larger, very handy. As recently as May 2012 they have these instructions right in the magazine instruction pages. It is very easy to follow and to do yourself. Considering you are making the pattern already, you would need to send a bit more time and make sure you have more space on your pattern making paper to allow for a larger adjustment if necessary.

When making the shorts (or pants) I like to give really special details like making the facing of the waist band of the pants out scraps of some other fabric scraps I have left over from something else. You know just like you see in the stores. You can notice the contrast in the photos, and if you look really closely you can see that it is from the same fabric the tunic is made from. Happy sewing this week I have been a busy little bee making 3 tunics and two pairs of shorts. What will next bring? God willing a purple May Burdastyle dress.

TTFN

Update: I did get to making my Burdastyle May dress, I had to get some buttons to complete the project. Pictures coming.

Tunics - The Ancient T-Shirt?

I have, well need, to retire some well worn and love tunics that I have had in my wardrobe for years. It is torn and full of holes. So, I sewed two more this week for replace them.

I will have different photos later.

Some history about tunics:  Following the fall of the Roman empire, the tunic continued to be worn with varying sleeve and hem lengths throughout Europe during the Middle Ages. Often reaching the knees or ankles, it was usually worn over underclothes consisting of a shirt (usually hip-length or longer) and drawers (usually knee- or ankle-length pants related to braccae). It may be accompanied by hose.

I found it interesting that a tunic worn as a regular shirt in modern times was worn as underclothes in ancient times. Were tunics the ancient T-shirt?

Prom 2012 for Son

Kids! I know I love mine. And the past week was a labor of love for my son to go to Prom in style. He needed some formal attire, and I didn't want to rent a suit. He will need a suit for another event this summer so we decided that I would make the suit. ALL IN ONE WEEK! That was a totally crazy idea but I really like the results. I had made a suit before in October for Homecoming. The results were, OK. I made everything BUT the tie, IN October and for Prom last week. The results are night and day.

Homecoming October 2011

 I learned a lot of things and I realized that I needed to make some major improvements on the jacket. WOW! Who knew that there is so much padding and fabric stabilizer are in a well tailored jacket. I really took my time and tried to do a lot more homework this time. (I should say I crammed there was much time for taking time.). I realized, only last week, Burda Pattern (B7481) doesn't go by waist size to determine pants size. Pant sizes are determined by seat size, the measurement around your hips.

The jacket, different from homecoming but still a burda pattern from the burdastyle.com site pattern number 6026. I learned there are two different ways to measure a man for the chest measurement (The common way to measure around the chest with the measuring tape going under the armpits, the second way to check is to measure around the chest and arms and subtract seven inches, then pick the larger number of the two for the chest measurement). The length of the jacket is determined by the height of the individual the jacket is being made for, there are three different choices, under 5'9" between 5'10" to 6'2" and then taller than 6'2". All useful information for another suit to make in the future God willing. :-D

I used a McCall's pattern, number 2447, for the shirt and vest. I used this pattern in the past for my hubby so I was very familiar with what to do. I was able to get them done very quickly because I knew the pattern well. The pattern is a classic it has been in their catalog for years. I used the shirts that needed cuff links, and made cuff links out of buttons. This I had seen but I just wouldn't try to it. My hubby isn't a fussy dresser so this gave me a chance to make them.

My son sprang this project on me one week before the prom. I was very nervous, but determined to deliver a great suit for my son. I truly thank the Lord for his help and guidance through this week. There were some mishaps and important things to learn in making this jacket. Like almost leaving two side panels pieces out of the lining. He help me when I was desperate, thank you so much.

Prom April 2012